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| FFR
3-LINK REAR SUSPENSION |
|
| Tools
Required: |
|
|
Hand Drill |
15/16"
Wrench |
|
1/2" Drill Bit |
1"
Wrench |
|
5/8"Drill Bit |
5/8"
Socket |
|
3/8"Drill Bit |
3/4"
Socket |
|
5/8" Wrench |
15/16"
Socket |
|
3/4" Wrench |
Ratchet |
|
|
| Note:
For participants in the Factory Five Challenge several of these
components should be welded in place. (This also applies to street
cars used on the track with race compound tires.) Specifically,
these components include: the panhard bar mount on the frame, the
upper control arm mount on the frame, and the upper control arm mount on
the axle. Care should be taken when welding to the axle housing to
ensure that no warping of the axle tubes occurs. |
| Important:
If you have the battery mounted in the standard street car location, it
will need to be moved to the trunk. It will not clear the panhard
bar mount. |
|
| Installation
Instructions |
|
| 1.
Put the car on jack stands with the stands under the frame in the
rear. Make sure that the car is well supported before doing any
work underneath it. |
| 2.
Put your jack under the axle to take tension off of the limiting straps. |
| 3.
Remove the quad shocks and brackets from the frame and rear axle.
They will not be used. |
 |
| 4.
Unbolt the shocks and limiting straps from the rear axle allowing them
to hang from the top mount. |
| 5.
If you do not have coil-overs, remove the springs by lowering the
axle. CAUTION:
Removing springs can
be VERY dangerous. Run a safety chain through the spring
and to the frame and use extreme caution. |
| 6.
One at a time unbolt each rear lower control arm and replace the
traction lock bracket with the competition version. The shock will
bolt back in using the same spacer in front and the 1/8" shim
toward the rear. The lower control arms should be mounted in the
upper set of holes as an initial setting. |
 |
 |
| Competition
Passenger Side |
Competition
Driver's Side |
| 7.
The frame mount for the panhard bar can be mounted next. The mount
attaches to the inside of the quadshock brackets and has a front leg
that attaches to the rear of the left main frame rail. |
 |
| 8.
Bolt the mount in place replacing the smaller quad shock bolts with
1/2" bolts, but do not tighten fully. The hole for the front
leg mount needs to be drilled in the back of the rail. You can
either mark it with a marker or start the hole with a drill through the
sleeve on the mount. Make sure before drilling that the hole is
lined up close to the center of the 2"x3" vertical tube so
that a nut can be attached on the back of the bolt from the bottom. |
 |
| 9.
Once the hole has been drilled, install the panhard mount and tighten
all the bolts. |
| 10.
Install a jam nut on each of the rod ends, remembering that two of them
are left hand thread. |
| 11.
Thread each rod end into the panhard bar and upper arm until
approximately 1/4" of thread is showing between the jam nut and end
of the rod end. |
|
| 12.
Mount the panhard bar to the car using the 5/8" bolts and
spacers. It will be necessary to adjust the length some to fit,
make sure that you adjust the same amount on both sides. There
should never be less than 3/4" of threads screwed into either the
panhard bar or the upper arm. |
| 13.
Once the panhard bar is in place, you can remove the upper control arm
on the passenger side. |
| 14.
With the arm removed, you can attach the bracket to the axle for the new
upper arm mount. The bracket clamps around the axle, with the
lower leg attaching to the hole where the counter weight was
attached. If you still have this weight on your axle, you will
have to remove it. |
|
| 15.
Before clamping the mount tight, check the clearance around the axle
vent tube. If the mount interferes with this tube, then you need
to grind or file some material away. Once this is done, tighten
the bolt on the lower leg first, then tighten the four bolts on the axle
clamp. |
| 16.
The frame mount for the upper arm mounts to the horizontal
2"x3" steel tube behind the seats, next to the old upper
control arm mount. If you will not be using the four link again,
this mount can be cut off or partially cut off to create more space. |
| 17.
Position the mount on the 2x3 toward the passenger side next to the old
upper control arm mount. (You also must make sure that there is
room for the nut to mount the upper control arm). The mount runs
parallel to the frame with the hole offset toward the rear and should be
lined up with the axle mount such that the upper control arm runs
parallel to the frame. If the weld for the old bracket interferes
with the new one, you can remove some material from the rear corner of
the new one to get it to sit flat on the frame. |
 |
| Upper
mount (trunk floor not installed) |
| 18.
Once positioned, mark and drill the holes for the bracket. It will
be easier to start with a small drill and work your way up to the
5/8" bit. |
| 19.
Bolt the bracket in place using the backing plate on the top side
(inside the trunk) and the two long 5/8" bolts. It will
probably be necessary to get someone to hold the top of the bolt while
you tighten the nut. |
|
| 20.
Install the rod ends with jam nuts in the upper control arm and bolt the
arm in place using the spacers. |
| 21.
You can now remove the drivers side upper control arm. |
| 22.
To set the alignment, make sure that your ride height is where you want
it, then adjust the pinion angle. We usually run about 2 degrees
up on the rear axle, but you can adjust this to fit your particular
set-up. |
| 23.
The panhard bar can also be set left to right, as well as leveled. |
| 24.
Double check all your nuts and bolts, and make sure that all four jam
nuts are tight. |
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